A novel-like reportage that offers a poignant account of Siberia’s dying indigenous cultures
‘We had a very strong grandfather who lived right here, in this clearing. His name was Porpey Ira. Do you know what that means?’
‘No, what?’
‘Man of the spirits,’ she said, lowering her voice. ‘Do you realise who he was?’
‘A tetypy, a shaman.’
‘Yes,’ she said, nodding.
At the head of the bed lay a rolled-up checked blanket. She reached for it and covered herself up to the neck, making herself invisible.
‘In the local forests they feared him like the plague. Worse! That’s why they gave him a nickname. Do you know what it was?’
‘Pyungeze – the Giant,’ I guessed.
She was amazed.
‘He said he was immortal. He could stick a knife in his own chest and go on laughing and talking.’
‘But he died?’
‘Yes.’ She hesitated, as if she’d wanted to add something but thought better of it.
‘Those were his things? The items you took to the museum ten years ago?’ I asked quietly. Matriona exploded.
‘Awful things! Complete shit! What the hell? You saw for yourself what junk it was! A chipped cup, a leaky saucepan, some torn rags and some beads. And a piece of wire. All in a moulding old bag hanging by…’
‘By his grave?’
‘Where else?! No drum, no costume, nothing. Do you know what a hard time I had persuading that stupid woman in charge of the cultural department that those things had any value? That they were sacred? Unique items! Only my brother knew where it was. Over there, in the gully.’
She waved towards the window.
‘He took us there. Afterwards he regretted it.’
‘Why?’ I asked.
She turned her head away.
‘There weren’t even any figurines. Like your ones. Or any other devils. Nothing. And you’re asking me what those figurines of yours are? I’ll tell you now, officially: fuck knows! Did you really think you’d learn that from me? I don’t know, I’m a nurse by training. What did you expect? Did you think I was omniscient? Man, look around you, we don’t know that sort of thing anymore. We’re civilised people. I studied in Saint Petersburg! They taught us how to recognise spies there.’ […]
‘We haven’t any water. I’ll go and get some,’ I said, and grabbed a bucket.
Snow was getting into the vestibule through gaps between the boards, covering everything in there in a coat of white dust. I pushed the warped door. Outside there was far more of it. I felt as if I had crossed into another room, just a bigger one. Dense but fine snow was falling. The torchlight softly dissolved among the snowflakes and was gone without encountering any obstacles. I couldn’t see a thing, just a black void whichever way I looked. No sign of our arrival here. No marks left by sledges, caterpillar tracks or anything you could follow to get out of here. And not get lost.
This could be useful advice for anyone: before you bid farewell to someone who has spent the past two days driving you across the forest by snow scooter, make sure of two things: first of all that the householder you’ve come to visit is at home, and secondly that the person who took you there will be back to fetch you in a couple of days’ time. Otherwise he goes off, thinking everything’s all right. The whole world will think everything’s all right, and no one will look for you.
I bent down to pick up an axe resting against a chopping block. It was rusty, with a broken handle. A piece of trash. I was led to the stream hidden behind a clump of bushes by pure instinct and the memory of a well-trodden path I had noticed just after arriving. The stream ran at the bottom of a shallow dip, now covered, like everything else, by a shapeless coating of snow and ice. But in the middle was a blowhole. Frozen over. When was the last time anyone had fetched water here? Three, four or five days ago? I whacked the ice with the axe head, cursing aloud, until there was a splash of black water. As I filled the bucket, I felt uneasy; now and then I looked up, as if afraid that at any moment somebody would loom over me and ask: ‘Who gave you permission to drink from my stream? Hand over your soul in exchange!’ or something of the kind. But there was no one. Even so, I wanted to be indoors right now, as if the tumbledown shack with the crooked door was sure to guarantee me protection. At least it would shield me from the snow and the cold. And that was something.
Translated by Antonia Lloyd-Jones
A novel-like reportage that offers a poignant account of Siberia’s dying indigenous cultures
This travel reportage, which won the 2025 Ryszard Kapusciński Prize, presents two journeys made to remote Siberia by ethnographer Andrzej Dybczak. His travels establish the origin and purpose of artefacts from Kraków’s Ethnographic Museum, providing a platform for indigenous peoples to reveal their history.
In ‘Forest of the Spirits’, Dybczak seeks the Selkup people, who might explain two doll-like figures which he takes to be shamanic tools. His dangerous journey through increasingly remote settlements includes a near-fatal helicopter crash and encounters with suspicious locals who mistake him for a spy. Through persistence and conversations with a variety of characters, he gradually uncovers the figures’ significance.
In ‘Girl from the North Country’, Dybczak goes to the Nenets Autonomous Republic to research clothing sewn from furs, including wolverine, an animal with sinister spiritual significance. Through fragmentary information gathered mostly from native women, he reconstructs the probable story of the Polish exiles who brought home these items.
Beyond uncovering the mysteries behind the museum artefacts, Dybczak documents how the tsarist and Soviet regimes – and alcohol – have destroyed the culture of indigenous reindeer-herding tribes. Their shamanic rites have been replaced by Orthodox Christianity and former nomadic herders now live in city apartments and work for the corporation exploiting their land for gas and oil. Yet the author also finds people preserving traditional crafts, old beliefs, and folk songs in a dying language.
Illustrated by line drawings of the objects, Forest of the Spirits is a sad account of a world that is rapidly becoming extinct. It is beautifully written, often reading more like a novel than non-fiction.
Antonia Lloyd-Jones
Selected samples
She climbed her first peaks in a headscarf at a time when women in the mountains were treated by climbers as an additional backpack. It was with her that female alpinism began! She gained recognition in a spectacular way. The path was considered a crossing for madmen. Especially since the tragic accident in 1929, preserved … Continue reading “Halina”
First, Marysia, a student of an exclusive private school in Warsaw’s Mokotów district, dies under the wheels of a train. Her teacher, Elżbieta, tries to find out what really happened. She starts a private investigation only soon to perish herself. But her body disappears, and the only people who have seen anything are Gniewomir, a … Continue reading “Wound”
A young girl, Regina Wieczorek, was found dead on the beach. She was nineteen years old and had no enemies. Fortunately, the culprit was quickly found. At least, that’s what the militia think. Meanwhile, one day in November, Jan Kowalski appears at the police station. He claims to have killed not only Regina but also … Continue reading “Penance”
The year is 1922. A dangerous time of breakthrough. In the Eastern Borderlands of the Republic of Poland, Bolshevik gangs sow terror, leaving behind the corpses of men and disgraced women. A ruthless secret intelligence race takes place between the Lviv-Warsaw-Free City of Gdańsk line. Lviv investigator Edward Popielski, called Łysy (“Hairless”), receives an offer … Continue reading “A Girl with Four Fingers”
This question is closely related to the next one, namely: if any goal exists, does life lead us to that goal in an orderly manner? In other words, is everything that happens to us just a set of chaotic events that, combined together, do not form a whole? To understand how the concept of providence … Continue reading “Order and Love”
The work of Józef Łobodowski (1909-1988) – a remarkable poet, prose writer, and translator, who spent most of his life in exile – is slowly being revived in Poland. Łobodowski’s brilliant three- volume novel, composed on an epic scale, concerns the fate of families and orphans unmoored by the Bolshevik Revolution and civil war and … Continue reading “Ukrainian Trilogy: Thickets, The Settlement, The Way Back”